RC Flyer News' Oct issue: Leading Edge; Events: Red Flag, Princeton Jets, Beijing Model Expo; Build: Vintage RC; How to: Rebuild Carburetor; 3-View. RC Flyer News Nov/Dec Issue You can download it as a PDF file as well. Central Washington RC Sport Flyers' Float Fly September 7 - 9, Radio Control Sport Flyers. AMA Gold Member Club # osakeya.infotFlyers. org. FREE OPEN TRAINING NIGHTS. Tuesday and Thursday Evenings.
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Shim the trailing edge, center the rib tails on the trailing edge and secure each rib to the spar and trailing edge with thin CA.
Add the leading edge and top spar, centering the leading edge against the nose of each rib. Thin CA is the ticket. Use my edge-of-the-bench sanding technique to achieve or maintain a dead-straight result as you sand a slight bevel on the edge of the leading edge sheet. Add the cap strips. Cut each one oversize and glue it at the forward end, then use the bar sander to fit the rearward end before gluing it at the tail. Check each rib at the trailing edge, one at a time, and secure it to the spar and trailing edge with thin CA.
Add the upper spar, then the leading edge, centering the leading edge over the nose of each rib to overhang equidistantly top and bottom.
Because of its advantage of added work time, use gap-filling CA to secure the narrow trailing edge sheet, placing it carefully and using Use thin CA to secure the forward edge of the leading edge sheet. After the CA cures, use your palms to gradually draw the sheeting rearward and flatten it down against the wing frame. When it can be held flat against the upper spar without cracking, apply gapfilling CA along the spar and hold the sheeting down until it cures.
Use a heavy straightedge between your palms and the sheet to help produce a wave-free joint. Add the trailing edge sheet and the center section sheeting, and the top side of the panel is complete. Turn the wing upside down and run a bead of thin CA along each joint where the sheeting meets the ribs, using gentle finger pressure where necessary to ensure that the sheeting is tight to the ribs. Use my edge-of-thebench technique to ensure that the sheeting remains straight and no waves are sanded into it.
Holding the rear of the sheet upward to conform to the angle of the ribs, snug the sheeting over the noses of the ribs and against the leading edge, and apply a line of thin CA along the length of the joint. When the adhesive has cured thoroughly, use a wiping motion of.
Apply gapfilling CA along the spar and use the palm motion again as you draw the sheet down flat over the spar. Glue the two pieces of center section sheeting together and sand them flat. True the edges, then place.
Fifteen-minute epoxy and clamps are good insurance for sturdy joints between the main landing gear blocks and the shorter support blocks. Examine the instructions carefully and be sure to orient the blocks correctly.
Use minute epoxy to secure the landing gear blocks in the wing frame. The clamp ensures that the support block fits tightly against the plywood plate, providing maximum integrity for the gear wire. Snug one edge against the trailing edge sheet, then use a straightedge to guide your hobby knife as you trim away the excess wood so it can fit against the leading edge sheet. When the center sheet fits correctly, run a bead of gap-filling CA along the rear edge of the sheet and apply another bead of CA over the spar, then install the center sheet, using that same flowing palm motion to keep the sheet flat as the adhesive cures.
Add the cap strips by cutting. Use your hobby knife to cut a slight radius in each landing gear block, allowing for the radius of the degree bend in the wire gear. Whether you choose tricycle or conventional gear, the sheet is different but the technique is the same. Use pressure to make an indentation of the landing gear block in the wing sheeting. The indentation shows you where to cut the sheeting away to fit around the block.
The cap strip on the outboard rib should be flush with the outer edge of the rib. Now position your bar sander parallel to the trailing edge sheeting, and bring it up against the tail of the cap strip. Working slowly and fitting constantly as you go, sand the tail of each cap strip to fit perfectly over the rib and against the forward edge of the trailing edge sheet.
When it fits, apply a bit of gap-filling CA over the rear of the rib and press the cap strip into position. The top side of the wing is done, so flip the wing over and run a bead of thin CA along each of the unglued joints between the ribs and sheeting. The sheeting should contact the ribs, so use a little finger pressure over any gaps you find as you apply the adhesive. Now pin the wing down inverted, again with the trailing edge resting flat over the pinned-down balsa shim.
Prepare the landing gear by gluing the support block to the main block. Note that the support block is oriented so that it is on the opposite side of the groove in the main block, and with the groove in the support block facing the long end of the main block. This joint makes a strong case RC-SF. The center section has been installed for my tricycle gear installation, and the bits of filler wood around the block have been sanded smooth. Use your razor plane to rough-cut the leading edge before finishing it with coarse sandpaper on the bar sander.
Mark the center line of this rib with a a soft pencil or a finepoint marker. Use a clamp on this joint to ensure a tight fit is maintained throughout the cure. There is a slight radius on the gear wire at each of the degree bends, so use your hobby knife to cut a slight angle in the groove to accommodate the radius of the wire.
Fit the prepared gear block into the notched, plywood-supported ribs and check their fit. Trim if necessary, then install the blocks with slow setting epoxy.
Remember that the only glue If you chose the tricycle gear option, add the trailing edge sheet, the leading edge sheet and the cap strips, then glue the two center section sheets together. If you chose the taildragger, add the trailing edge sheet and prepare the two center section sheets.
Working with the leading edge sheet for the taildragger or the center sheeting for the trike, dry-fit the sheet and apply some extra pressure over the sheet.
The objective here is to make an indentation of the block in the back face of the sheet, and this indentation shows you where you must cut the sheet to fit over the block. Trim the leading edge sheet or center sheet to fit the block, then install it with gap-filling CA.
Sand the ends of the wing panel flat, then add the wing tip, centering it along the outboard rib. Rough shape the leading edge with a razor plane, then use coarse sandpaper on the bar sander to bring the leading edge and tip fillers to their proper contours.
Now build the. Pin the tips down to the work surface and pin or weight the center section over the dihedral shim. Measure the leading and trailing edges to ensure that they are equidistant from the work surface. The panels are joined against an angled center rib. Mark the center of the joining rib with a pencil or a thin marker, then center it over the root of one wing panel and trace the airfoil onto the center rib.
Cover the shim with Plans Protector and butt the two panels against each other at the root ends, checking. Mix at least one ounce of minute epoxy, and use an epoxy brush to apply it over the face of one root rib and the matching face of the angled center rib.
Pin the center rib to the root rib, angling the pins in from the edge of the center rib so they do not obstruct the opposite panel from mating. Now apply epoxy to the other side of the center rib and the root rib of the opposite wing panel, and bring the two together. Align the panels carefully at the leading and trailing edges, and add a few more pins to secure the second panel.
With the fresh energy that only comes from a new day, pop the wing RC-SF. Use the blocks as templates for the travel channels at the trailing edge of the wing. Cut the channels with the file, then secure the blocks with five-minute epoxy. Give the center joint a rough sanding, being very careful to prevent gouging the balsa at the top side of the center section as you sand the center rib to match the airfoil. When the epoxy has cured, hold the blocks against the trailing edge of the wing and cut matching travel slots in the trailing edge with the round file, then glue the blocks onto the trailing edge with five-minute epoxy.
Apply a dab of Vaseline Petroleum Jelly at the exits for the aileron linkage in the carrier tubes, then install the tubes into the linkage blocks with five-minute epoxy. Pin the blocks down to the work surface so that the linkage will set in a straight line. When sanding near the wing tips, use a strip or two of masking tape to prevent sanding unwanted depressions into areas that should remain unaffected. Fit the ailerons against the trailing edge and mark where they must be cut to fit between the linkage blocks and wing tips.
Cut them to length and mark the location of the aileron linkage on each aileron. Drill the holes and cut the channels for the linkage, then check the fit once again. Remember to allow adequate clearance at each end for covering material. The last thing you want is a too-tight aileron. Hinging has been previously covered, so mark the positions of the hinges and use the Great Planes Slot Machine to cut the hinge slots.
When the slots are cut, use the razor plane to rough-cut the V-bevel into the leading edge of each aileron, then finish them up with the bar sander. Switch to medium paper on the bar sander and go over the entire wing and both ailerons. Then, of course, there are five fuselages to be built, engines, motors, cowls, landing gear, radio systems and linkages to install, all kinds of finishing methods and materials to. Cut the strip ailerons to fit between the aileron linkage blocks and wing tips, cut the ailerons to their correct length and mark the linkage locations on the ailerons.
Drill the holes and cut the channels for the linkage, then mark the wing and ailerons for hinge locations. This is art, my friends, and your skills are surely developing. My Great Planes Super Sportster 60 wing is now complete and ready for final sanding before being fitted to the still-to-be-constructed fuselage.
Stay with me, my friends. There are two more sets of wings and five fuselages ahead of me, along with engines, motors, covering, painting, radio installation and so much more. References Bob Smith Industries, Inc.
Box Champaign, IL Phone: II at the Toledo Weak Signals show this year, a number of people asked how I did the fiberglass cowl. Since I do a lot of my own designing, out of necessity I have become somewhat proficient at making molded parts.
Mold making is not particularly difficult, but it is time consuming, and the materials are expensive. II cowl from Walmart, so a serious scale effort usually requires some mold making.
If you want to try it, start with something easy like a cowling, which is usually a two-part mold two halves. For the CL. II, I was able to get by with a single-part mold, and these are a lot easier to make, although they do have their idiosyncrasies.
Most molds are done in halves, as one-piece molds are good only for very shallow parts. I have also done three-piece molds two halves and a nose piece , which have the ability of reproducing detail on three sides, but these are somewhat complex to make. Mold making is one of those disciplines that once done, really takes the fear out of doing more. Although most of what has been published on the subject does not involve scale model airplanes, the techniques are interchangeable.
Mold making starts with the plug. A framework is built, and polyurethane foam blocks fill in the skeleton for this single-part mold. The blocks are then sanded down to the formers.
Be careful not to sand into the former. Two-ounce glass cloth has been applied with polyester resin, sanded and then filled with two-part autobody filler.
The lip for the cockpit surround was challenging to finish. Okay, I will really scare you off here by saying that all the work is in the plug, and you will either destroy it getting it out of the mold or throw it away two years from now when cleaning out your shop. There are a couple of rules when making plugs, the primary being that there cannot. A great example here is a cowl from a Waco having those beautiful, teardropshaped rocker cover blisters around its circumference.
In this particular. SCALE case, it would be better to make a mold for the basic shape of the cowl and then either vacuum-form or mold the individual blisters and apply them separately. It is important that the plug be somewhat rigid.
If you start with a hollow plug such as an existing cowl, this should be braced internally with balsa or plaster. Another thing to remember is that any detail, defect or other surface irregularity on the plug will be faithfully reproduced in the mold.
While I generally use polyurethane foam sanded down to a skeleton framework and glassed, a plug can be made from anything as long as it can be surfaced properly The plug is primed with autobody primer, wet sanded smooth and then waxed with parting and stand up to the process.
I have wax. The surface of balsa, plywood and even shaped plug so that its surfaces are smooth the plug must be perfect.
Next, apply pieces of a wax candle. It only has and shiny. The first step here is repeated coats of spray can auto to last through the mold-making coating the plug with a two-part primer and wet sand them down. II, I drew autobody filler, which is then sanded holes or other minor irregularities the outlines in CAD and laser cut back to the glass surface. Avoid can be fixed with a single-part glazing an interlocking skeleton framework sanding through the glass, and treat putty, sanded down and re-primed.
The open sections of the framework were then filled with blocks of polyurethane foam epoxied in. Also, glue the blocks only to the base of the plug to avoid having adhesive ooze to the surface. Being lazy, I used clay for the curved section.
You can then easily shape the foam with a sanding block down to the balsa frames. A layer of two-ounce fiberglass is applied to the plug with polyester autobody resin. Simply pour this The next part is mixture over the partially built mold.
The process here is the same, no matter how many mold stages you are doing. I used to paint my plugs, but I have found that the polyester gelcoat used for the mold surface sometimes reacts with the paint. So, it is better to leave the plug in primer. Once the plug is done, you are only halfway there, but the mold is a lot easier to make than the plug. Determining how many mold sections you need one, two or three parts depends on the shape of the plug and how much detail you want in the part.
A degree plug with protrusions such as a canopy or blister will automatically need to be at least two parts, with the partition centered directly on the protrusion or 90 degrees away. A two-part mold is more work because the plug must be partitioned to yield two mold halves, and provisions must be made to properly locate the halves temporarily during the part-making process.
The mold for my Mosquito cowl is a good example of this, having exhaust fairings on each side, degrees from each other. Here, I partitioned the mold in the center of the plug, 90 degrees from each fairing. Since each mold half is done individually, I formed circular locating tabs in the first mold flange with a drill before laying up the other side.
Gaps between the perimeter frame may be filled with modeling clay, and you can use a ply scraper The single-part plug and the mold for my CL. II have separated cleanly, and there is little cleanup to do on the mold. I usually belt sand the edges of the mold flange to neaten things up.
I also block off the edges of the frame to keep the schmutz where I want it. Once the mold is partitioned and edged, a special mold release wax is applied a few times and buffed off. It is important that the plug have a good coat of wax, since the polyester resin will not stick too well to MonoKote. Next, brush or spray on a single coat of water-based PVA mold release agent. For the actual mold surface, you have two choices in polyester—regular gelcoat or tooling gelcoat.
The latter is made specifically for mold applications, cures to a much harder surface and is a lot more expensive. Note the crisp edge of the cockpit—once opened, this area provides a proper shape and mount for the combing.
Start by painting on an initial coat of gelcoat and let it gel up. From here, use autobody polyester. This builds up two-part filler. This can be a messy process, so cover everything! That this stuff will run everywhere is another reason I like to partition off the edges of my mold halves. One rule to follow in all this is to avoid bubbles, which ruin the mold surface and weaken the mold structure.
The other side requires the same procedure, except for the introduction of the locating tabs into the initial half mentioned above. A good idea is to apply a hard wax wedge from a candle! A secret, never-before-seen shot of my CL. II amidst final assembly. Only the forward. Splitting the mold is easy; extricating the plug from the second half is usually not.
A solution here is to soak the mold in hot water for at least half an hour. Before using the mold, give it a good wet sanding with and then paper. If you have any. After all this, you still have to make a part from the mold. Apply a few coats of mold release wax, buffing off each, and then apply the PVA. I also add some micro-balloons to the mix to make the part easier to sand and to give the resin some body.
There is no question that this is an involved process, but it is certainly one that is easily learned and applied. Molded fiberglass parts are significantly more accurate and stronger than plastic, so if you are a serious scale modeler, this is a required skill set to develop.
This article only scratches the surface of what is a very comprehensive subject, and I recommend reading, searching the internet and discussing your projects with suppliers. If you have questions, you can reach me at rcaso aol. With the introduction of Janus, it became attractive again, and soon other manufacturers also presented highperformance composite GRP twoseater sailplanes, and pilots started asking for a new two-seater class in This class was introduced with a meter wingspan limit as a way to make it club friendly.
In , the Janus C appeared, built using the new carbon fiber materials that stretched the length to a meter wingspan and also reduced its weight.
In Schempp-Hirth presented the Duo Discus, which although it had no flaps, set a new standard in this class. Schempp-Hirth engineers, ever inventive, continued to work on a new, flapped-wing concept to enhance the performance level in this class.
Just in time for the Aero Exposition , they introduced the prototype of the new Arcus. I was then invited to fly the Arcus at the Hahnweide airfield. The joint venture led to the actual shape of the Arcus wing, in which six different airfoils take care of optimal airflow everywhere.
An important feature, especially for such a curved wing, was the aero-elasticity. The wing design of the Arcus uses airfoils that were developed at the laminar wind tunnel in Stuttgart Germany by Dr.
Note that the Schempp-Hirth airbrakes on the upper surface of each wing are designed following a new philosophy. Although they are relatively narrow, they use three blades to open high.
By doing this, they deliver a high braking effect, but without destroying too much lift, which increases approach speed.
The lightweight outer wingtips are inserted with their tube spars until their spring-loaded bolts snap in. The flaperon sections on these outer wings interconnect automatically During downward movement they remain nearly in neutral position to reduce the aileron drag. As with all the Schempp-Hirth gliders, the canopy opens to the right side and, in an emergency, is unlocked by the normal closing lever. It will then fly off with the right hinges breaking off.
For our flight, with Bernd Weber and me in the cockpit, some fuel and eight liters of water ballast in the rear tank, the aircraft had a This prototype is equipped with a small skid underneath the belly instead of the usual small nose wheel.
With a relatively high loading on the tailwheel, the risk of nodding its nose down during braking is minimal, so the small skid, which produces less drag, serves well enough to protect the belly in case you really must brake the sailplane hard.
The conventional nose wheel is available as an option. The instrument mushroom, which can be swung up for easy access and emergency exit , and the handles besides the rear panel make entering the cockpit easy.
The Arcus. The Oehler system with Solo engine is used only for sustaining flight and not for takeoff and climbing to altitude. The molds are quite complex and costly to fabricate. Here you see the spar being laminated into the lower wing surface. The instrumentation for the Arcus can be quite complex, including even IFR systems, GPS and radios of your choosing—you decide how much to spend The bowlike dihedral of the wing gives the wingtips a lot of ground clearance.
Although the wing loading was quite high, the Arcus T took off very early in the ground roll. From the moment it was in flight, it gave me the impression of flying a lightweight single-seater sailplane. Its comfort, good cockpit. When entering a thermal with the flaps set to one or two, the glider reports the position of the best climb clearly and makes centering as easy as in a lightweight single seater.
The roll rate was clearly slower in this position, and I needed to add opposite aileron control to keep the yaw string centered. The slip-roll moment compensated for the loss of lift at the inner wing, and I could even let it thermal, hands off! The roll rate with the flaps set to one was only 3. The reason for this. Here we are happily cruising at knots. The sink rate is about feet per minute. As you can see, the instrument panel is very easy to read, including the GPS.
Normally the laminar airflow sticks until it is turbolated by a turbolator tape near the center of the flaperons to avoid separation bubbles. Stall behavior of the new two seater is gentle. Pulling the stick farther back. All the connections for the controls are done automatically, including the wingtips, which plug into the main wing panel as shown here, so rigging the sailplane is easy.
With the control stick farther back the wing drops, which is immediately stopped by easing the stick forward and applying opposite rudder. The spoilers are a new design—triple gate type. They are extremely effective at braking the sailplane without killing too much lift. The large wingtip ground clearance and the robust, well-suspended main wheel make grass airfield landings easy and safe and minimize damage to the airframe. This photo shows you the unique design of the wing of the new Arcus, which has been optimized for high-performance, tow-place flying.
The Arcus is the first really new design in the meter twoseater class in a long time.
With its wings employing the latest technology it should be difficult to beat in competitions. Its gentle flying characteristics and its singleseater handling qualities—which are quite similar to those of a and meter glider—give its pilots real fun. The large wingtip ground clearance and the robust, wellsuspended main wheel make field landings easy and safe and minimize damage. The engineering and production crew of Schempp-Hirth launched a great new glider in the Arcus.
The Solo engine uses a five-bladed propeller to provide thrust for the sustainer engine shown here. Maybe even more if you enjoy the thrill of flying sailplanes from the ground.
This new machine is built by the a company that specializes in the best RC sailplanes money can download. What you get in the Arcus is an all-composite machine that simulates the full-scale sailplane almost to the letter, even in terms of flying and pilot feel. However, the Arcus model will cost only a small fraction of the price of a full-scale sailplane. If you want to know where to download this model on the west side of the Atlantic ocean, point your browser at http: Or contact: Complete interior, including: Instruments—set Interior Instruments—set Water ballast tanks—5 kg Wheel disc brake Scale fuselage repaint Signal fluorescent painting.
I captured this shot of the Arcus banking hard to the right above the Tech in Kirchheim, Germany, which is near the Schempp-Hirth factory. Controls Ailerons, tip ailerons, elevator, rudder, flaps, air brake, air tow, retractable gear, water ballast tanks, wheel brake.
The aircraft we fly take us to places that are as tranquil as they are rewarding. Just the thought of flight inspires dreams where every maneuver is perfect. Your favorite dealers display and sell JR radios and accessories, because they know that using a JR product will encourage you to fly more often and always be equipped for success.
JR, feel the difference! JR is exclusively distributed by Horizon Hobby, Inc. Ernie and Paul Schweizer are famous for building many full-scale gliders and sailplanes, but they were model builders in the beginning.
Paul A. Schweizer published a wonderful memoir, Soaring Through the 20th Century available at cumulussoaring. This is the full-scale TG-3A that is now shown in the U.
Air Force Museum in Dayton, Ohio. Model kits were not available to Paul and Ernie as boys, so they became scratch builders. Their source of balsa was reclaimed insulation, used in those times in ice cream. This full-scale TG-2 is a restoration project done by Steve Noyes. The TG-2 had some minor design deficiencies. Due to a shortage of materials during the war, the war department specified that the next generation, TG-3, be redesigned to correct the deficiencies and employ all-wood wing construction.
The quarter-scale TG-3A looks very scale both in flight and on the ground. The gliders flies extremely well and would make for a good aircraft for pilots wanting to get into aerotowing. Interestingly, they started their first business as a balsa wood supplier for model builders—small world, right?
In , the Army Air Corps began an aggressive glider training program. The U. Army Air Corps. The TG-2 was in fact the first training glider delivered to the military. It entered service in with a delivery of units.
Trainees received approximately six hours of dual instruction prior to transitioning to. The construction of the TG3A was quite conventional, with a fuselage of the typical welded tube type. The wing spars and ribs, empennage and turtle deck were fabricated from wood.
The quarter-scale TG-3A is easy to scratch build. The design configuration is easy to reproduce, and the canopy is fabricated from clear plastic sheet stock, so no vacuum-forming is necessary.
Here you can see that the cockpit is simple to fabricate. It just requires a bit of time and patience. The TG-3A is a very docile in the air. Even though it is not a highperformance glider, it does very well on the tow and in thermals.
A takeoff dolly eliminates the need to support the wing tip and minimizes the potential of dragging a tip on tow. The TG-3A is captured here prior to release from a third-scale Cub, which is used for the tow plane.
The size of the glider is nearly as big as the Cub, so it is easy to see in the air. With its color scheme you can see well even at high altitude. Also, rudder and elevator trim tabs were added to assist in holding position in multiple tow situations.
As with most modelers, I have progressed through several types of aircraft models and settled in on mostly quarter-scale projects. The genesis After a quick phone call to Jack, I had permission to develop a quarter-scale project based on his original plans.
Then I researched the aircraft, which included an Internet search and collecting photographs. He provided a wealth of information concerning the cockpit details and even provided copies of TG-3A manuals. My TG-3A project required only minor structural material changes. The drawings were then sent to Bob Laserve, who digitized them and laser cut the parts into a short kit package. The model employs straightforward balsa and plywood construction.
The wings are built up with balsa ribs and cap strips as well as a sheeted leading edge. Barn door spoilers are used, which are very effective at killing lift when the model is in flight. The wingspan of my quarter-scale model is inches, placing it in the fourmeter category. Its ready-to-fly weight is Since this model has proven to be a very successful glider, I have decided to increase its scale in a next generation model. The new design will included cable-operated ailerons, top and bottom spoilers, lighting and rib stitching.
The spar. Happy landings! My TG follows the tug extremely well. All I need to do as the ground-based pilot is keep the wings level, maintain a steady flight attitude and follow with rudder control.
Here I am showing off my quarter-scale, scratch-built glider. I wanted to do it like the Schweizers did. This glider was used in WWII. The engine proved to be too much weight for the Bipe, so I decided to take it out of the Bipe and put it in another model. I had been shopping around for another airplane at this point in time, preferably an IMAC design, when I saw the Hangar 9 Extra was. This is my Hangar 9 Extra after it got an engine upgrade to a fourcylinder power plant I had around my shop.
It was a fun modification.
The stock Extra is typically powered by a DA I wanted to use a four-cylinder engine that I had from another model. The tank and control system install stayed pretty much the same as it would have in the stock airplane.
The only difference you can see with my Extra is that it has four pipes sticking out of the cowl instead of two.
And it makes a great sound! I talked to a friend of mine, master builder Stan La Point, about my project, and he agreed to do the retrofit for the engine in the Extra So, it was downloadd and away Stan went.
When Stan got into the retrofit. Then the whole firewall area and front end had to be reinforced with triangle stock, dowel pins, screws and fiberglass. Stan also reinforced the main fuselage with cross members to handle the torque of the new engine.
Stan also put a baffle inside the top of the cowl to duct air over the rear cylinders of the engine. The final weight of the Hangar 9 Extra with the four-. I love the look of this airplane in the air, and the sound of the new engine is simply music to my ears. The re-powered airplane is all I could hope for. The sound of that powerful four-cylinder engine is especially nice too. Turning onto final, I love the look, feel and sound of my modified Hangar 9 Extra , with its new four-cylinder and three-blade propeller engine pulling it through the air.
They were built as strut-braced, high-wing light airplanes, meant to introduce the masses to the fun and thrill of flying. The Pacer was a variant of the four-place version of the two-place PA Vagabond. It utilized a steel tube fuselage as well as an aluminumframed wing.
The airplane was covered in fabric. Piper introduced the PA Tri-Pacer to the public in as a way to get more people flying. It had improved cross-wind ground-handling.
The Tri-Pacer offered more power too, with and horsepower engines. The tricycle gear became so popular that the PA Tri-Pacer outsold the Pacer by a ratio of six to one. The plans include two sheets, which are super high quality. So, check out this plan and then give Wendell a call. As president of the Country Squire Modelers, I seemed destined to discover what all the infatuation was about. It is, indeed, an excellent aircraft, a perfect high-wing trainer and a big, slow, stable and reliable floater.
It has one major flaw, and that is, everyone has one! My mission, and you may deem it ego-driven, is to fly an Apprentice that is distinguishable from the flock floating around our airfield. Modifying, personalizing and most importantly improving an ARF is a very worthwhile skill-set. Some modelers habitually remove all linkages and connectors, simply replacing them all with bespoke hardware. E-Flite is known for quality, well-supported components, but some of the early Apprentices had plastic motor bell housings, which.
There is enough product here to do a few airplanes, so it is an inexpensive modification. Start by masking off the model. It has low tack so it will not tear up the foam when you remove the tape. At this point my model is nearly ready for the first coat of paint. I like to use Krylon brand for the body paint. You can use whatever, but make sure it does not attack the foam.
I believe the newer housings are metal. Should E-Flite have installed the more expensive Power 15 motor? Early instruction manuals did not depict epoxying the wing halves together, nor did beefy posts for wing mounts exist. My model, which included excellent illustrated instructions, also included this step, as well as substantial post mounts. More critical, especially if you. I adhered mine to a sheet of glass as a way to save them for later on in the process of painting and redesign.
Notice that I masked off the propeller prior to painting the body color. The Krylon paint did soften the foam a bit as you can see in this photo, so I recommend using Tamiya instead. The hub hole diameter matches the wire gear, so this is also a simple swap. The front gear, however, is shaped for a smaller tire. Chucking a threaded bolt and nut of the same diameter as the hub into my drill press, I gently pressed a coarse file into one side of the tread, abrading enough rubber to clear the gear offset.
To conclude the mechanical modification options: As good as this airplane is, to me the graphics are not beautiful. I removed all the corporate logos and trimmed off the protruding parts of the Apprentice logos, leaving the smooth swoop of the fuselage stripes. I removed the text on the wing as well. I peeled off the four black, self-adhesive cockpit window pieces, which are very thin and want desperately to adhere to themselves RC-SF.
Those pesky windows further adhere to the fuselage by four gummy clear tapes, which leave a lot of residue behind. As the photos depict, the rest of this adventure involved judicious, sequential masking and painting. The worst aspect was that the foam does. I was successful on the tail feathers, as they are made from a different foam material. I rooted around and found a roll of virtually useless, really low-tack white tape, with which I had some success. The secret to multiple-color painting of foamies is not to tape over painted areas, and to sequence your painting with that aim in mind.
I performed several touch-ups by spraying some of the appropriate color into a cup and applying it with a cotton swab. After epoxying the wing halves. Despite my success with Krylon Fusion paints, I do believe it attacked the insert foam sheet with air holes at the fuselage bottom, not so much to destroy it as to roughen the surface. I masked the propeller rather than remove it and masked other areas of the fuselage.
It left the white of the foam showing. Notice the windscreen has the foam raised a bit from the Krylon paint. You can use striping tape to add detail to your model. It will go around corners well, so you can pretty much create any paint scheme you want I used some newspaper to mask off the tips of the elevator. It takes about three minutes to paint the center section of the elevator. Be sure to apply thin coats of paint to avoid runs.
The tips of the elevator got sprayed red. It works well when you use it on a paper towel. You may need to do some light sanding in places to clean up the edges of the paint where it met with the masking tape.
Go gently here so you do not go through the foam. Here is what the vertical fin looks like all masked off and painted. Because I wanted the rudder to be painted a different color, I masked it separately from the vertical fin. Then I sprayed with the red. Once the trim mask is removed from the rudder this is what the vertical fin and rudder look like. It is definitely a change from the stock Apprentice.
The Krylon red paint did soften the wing tips foam some too. Again, I recommend that you use a water-based spray paint that does not have any ketones. It makes for an attractive contrast between the blue and white. This is how I installed the new hinges on the elevator of my repainted Apprentice. Be sure to fold the elevator down so that the tape extends in the hinge line. I used some packing tape on the root of the wing to reinforce it where the rubber bands will run over the top and fasten it to the fuselage.
I adhered a strip of it below and parallel to the fuselage side stickers, the elevator and tail and wingtips, all parallel to the remaining stickers.
Painting the fuselage was easy, as it was all blue, but do remember to mask where paint can get onto the electronic parts. Also, protect your lungs! When I removed all the masking and stickers, I marveled at how much I improved the look of this popular, little airplane.
Painting the propeller tips yellow was less successful—I should have primed the tips with gray or white primer. Leaving the graphic stickers as stencils worked well on the wing and tail. I applied the blue 3M tape parallel to these shapes, masked off the underneath. After that dried overnight, I gingerly applied low-tack tape to protect the blue, peeled back the masking on the tips and applied the red.
download one at the art store where you get the anachronistic rubber cement pickup. This masking and re-masking process can be fairly time consuming, but it is so exciting to peel back the accumulated tape and and newsprint and reveal the fruits of your labor. It is truly well worth the effort. Personalizing your airplane adds uniqueness, increases visibility and therefore safety and provides a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that turns your ARF into artwork.
You merely need to give the picker a slight twist to start and release the screw. You will find many uses for this handy, simple tool during problematic tasks. During my 30 years as a contributing editor to RC Modeler Magazine I found lots of ways to make my builds easier and eliminate the frustration that can come from building RC airplanes. Some of the ideas were good, and some were. With carpet tape, you can make a simple tool to pick up small parts.
The tape is very tacky.
When the end loses its tack, lift and move the tape to an unused spot and you are ready for more picking. This little tool has helped me many times to pick up and place small parts. I have probably forgotten more than I know at this point; however, there is a need for good, useable, up-to-date suggestions that deal with the current generation of RC airplanes, helicopters and gliders. Some of the old tried-and-. More often than not these inspirations arise when the modeler tries to solve a nagging building or assembly problem.
They all do a good job for their intended purpose. This how-to article deals specifically with carpet tape and how it can help make building your models go more easily in the workshop. Dental floss, shrink tubing, plastic tie wraps and rubber bands or clips can be used as well. However, for carpet tape you should clean the connectors with alcohol before applying the tape.
The tape will work well, and it is very lightweight. You can clean up your airplane by using a bit of carpet tape. Cut small pieces of carpet tape but leave the paper on one side. Use the tape to secure the wires to the side of the fuselage. Your model will be clean and neat inside, and there will be more useable room in the fuselage. Locating and mounting control horns can be troublesome, but carpet tape makes it easy.
Then you can easily mount and remove the horn. I generally use a drill press to match drill the mounting holes before mounting the horns to the surfaces. The tape will hold the horns in place while drilling. Do not remove the tape when installing the control horn for an even stronger bond. Here is a great idea for installing cowls.
Temporarily fasten the cowl in place with carpet tape. The tape will hold the cowl perfectly in place while you drill the mounting holes. Use cardboard to shim the distance between the cowl and spinner if desired. You will need tape on both sides of the cardboard if so. Small pieces of carpet tape work well as labels. However, you must leave the protective paper on one side. Note that an organized workshop will save you time during any build, and knowing what is in a particular box or what servo goes to what control can be a great help.
When a container is empty and needs to be relabeled, just pull the paper off and replace it with a new label. When cutting parts for a build, you can duplicate them easily by using carpet tape to hold the parts together. After the parts are cut and sanded they can be taken apart quite easily. You can be much more accurate with carpet tape. Maddening, huh? Especially if you have a spinner in place, with no way to hold the shaft, this is a problem.
A very simple solution is to apply two small pieces of carpet tape on the front side of the propeller shaft as shown. It works every time!
Small electronic components such as receivers, electronic speed controllers and small servos installed in the fuselage on electricpowered aircraft can be safely held in place with carpet tape.
You can remove them easily too. Just make certain the mounting surfaces are smooth and dust free. It is very tacky and thin—0. It is available with paper on one or both sides.
The tape I have was made by Manco, Inc. You will also The photos in this article will provide you with 10 great suggestions for using carpet tape in your workshop. These are just a starting place for ways to use carpet tape. Depending on how often you build or assemble an almost-ready-tofly model, your use of the tape will vary. Now, follow along with my pictorial for how to use carpet tape.
One technique might just make your build much, much easier, which can only put a big smile on your face. The year was Britain needed a new fighter, and fast.
From through the end of the war Johnson scored 38 victories, many of them in the Mk IX and many of them against s. It comes out of the box with the paint scheme and markings of the plane flown by Johnnie Johnson and. Other scale touches include a painted pilot figure, 20mm wing cannons, radiator scoops, engine exhausts and more. No other Spitfire model offers so much performance and detail in so little time.
Get to ParkZone. ParkZone, E-flite, just fly. All other trademarks, service marks or logos are property of their respective owners.
Aurora 9, Optima receiver and servos. The HFP will let me pre-program the servos before I program the transmitter. All Hitec servos require a 3- to 5-volt peak-to-peak square wave pulse for their pulse data. On the other hand, Hitec digital servos require a 0.
Note too that most Hitec servos can be powered by a DC source that ranges from 4. Plug in the servo and then step through the program menus. The new HFP lets you program your servos to a custom setting of your choice. Additionally you can test any brand of transmitter for the pulse sent to the receiver and any servo for voltage and proper movement. It is super easy to do too. It is this easy. Start by charging the battery pack. Next, plug the servo into the servo port on the right side of the programmer.
Then turn on the unit. The unit will likely boot up in Manual mode. In this mode, moving the dial in the upper right corner of the programmer will change. The HFP has many program options. In Manual model you can test the servos travel by just turning the knob in the upper right corner plus or minus. My unit runs from to For example, if you want to reset a servo to the factory default you would do the following: The lower the number, the quicker the response to control inputs typically. To program dead band, do the following: Press the M key to change the setting to the value of nine.
Press the M key to store the setting in the servo. Of course there might be some tweaking at the airfield because of changes in temperature. However, I will not have large sub trim values for the airplane in the transmitter to get its servos centers set as they are needed.
The same applies for. While it may not be needed for every model you fly, it will certainly come in handy for models you have invested a lot of time and money in downloading and building. You, our readers, come first in the magazine business, and we want to know how to serve you better. Please complete the following anonymous survey so we can provide you with the magazine that fits your content needs.
Box , West Richland, WA Alternately, you can answer the survey at surveymonkey. Thank you! How many years have you been flying model airplanes? More than 5 years 2. How many models do you own and fly? More than 10 3. What type of models do you fly? Helicopters 4. I used six-minute epoxy for the control horns too. There was one place on the Libelle wings that I departed from the instructions. When you bolt the wings to the fuselage, they could change in incidence because there were no incidence pins.
To fix this I bolted the wings to the fuselage and back-drilled from inside the fuselage two incident pins positions—at the leading edge and at the trailing edge of the wing. Short incidence pins were then glued in the wing roots. They mate to brass tubes that were glued into the wing fillets on the fuselage.
These index the wing to the fuselage nicely, so now there is no possibility of incidence changes. Next I married the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer. They provide a near gap-less hinge line between the stabilizer and the elevator.
The control horn was again glued into the elevator with the adhesive being six-minute epoxy. The horizontal stabilizer is held tight to the top of the vertical fin by way of two bolts. When I bolted the stabilizer to the fin I found that it was not perfectly parallel to the wing. If the horizontal stabilizer is not parallel to the wing of an airplane it can result in the airplane having the result that it wants to turn one direction better than the other, and it may not trim well either.
Then I mixed some minute epoxy with flocked cotton. Club libelle H the wings—a small piece of business-card shimmed it. You can sight down the elevator and wings to set the stabilizer parallel to the wings. It is easy.
Again, I let the epoxy cure overnight. In the morning, the stabilizer was popped loose, and all was good in sailplane builder land! Completing the fuselage was pretty easy too. Be sure to pre-fit the parts in the fuselage to make sure the fuselage does not get warped or distorted when it is glued in place. The kit comes with a tail wheel, so you must install it too. The canopy frame fits the fuselage well, but you must be extremely careful when you cut the canopy!