Rifle Bedding Book. Bedding of bolt action rifles is the foundation of rifle accuracy . The most effective improvement a rifle shooter can easily do. How to Glass Bed a rifle. Glasss bedding instructions in Rifle Bedding Book. Clear instructions Price $ Glass Bedding. Rifle bedding book instructs in how to glass bed rifles. Here are few of the benefits the Pillar Bedding gives: 1. Even and stressless seat of action .
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Rifle bedding is fundamental to rifle accuracy. The term bedding refers to the fit and stability of a barreled action within the rifle stock. If the fit and stability of the. In the first book of our series, we studied the fundamentals of rifle design, rifle . In the Practical Guide, bedding is covered in immense detail, yet along with this. Glass bedding rifle. Instructions of how to glass bed rifle action into stock. Rifle bedding book price $
Accuracy can also be enhanced slightly by masking the sides of the barrel in a diagonal fashion. Masking Taped gun stock On wooden gun stocks, the user has two factors to consider. If the bedding job is to be absolutely discreet, great care will need to be taken during the removal of wood along the top edges of the action and barrel channel.
Care must also be taken with brittle woods which chip easily during shaping. Unfortunately, the more the discreet the job is to be, the weaker the product will be at the top edges due to the poor concentration of compound in these areas. My own preference is for a tough, field practical job that will also resist moisture associated stock warping.
With Synthetic stocks including the Hogue, it is absolutely imperative to key into the sidewalls. This will give the compound both a mechanical lock and full adhesion where oils have been burnt out of the plastic. Further more, the top edges of the Hogue stock should show a good gap of around 1.
If the rifle is to be bedded front and rear, there is no need to remove stock material within the magazine well area. Air grinding a plastic synthetic stock. This Sako A7 plastic stock has been ground out, then burn prepped with a hot knife. Note the course finish of the burn prep which will ensure excellent adhesion. Also take note that on this stock, the recoil lug area has been opened right up to ensure that the floating lug will not be bumped when the action and lug are set into the mortice and that compound can escape so as not to force the action to sit too high.
Do NOT use a burn prep on fiber glass stocks. The prepped tang. In this example, I am prepping the tang of a Hogue stock that was factory fitted to an M Howa rifle. This model stock lacks a good bedding contact area at the tang so I have placed a piece of foam dotted line out to a more practical distance and will fill this entire area.
I will need to be careful that the finished result does not interfere with the trigger unit once it is re-fitted. Check for clearance between the stock side wall and action metal. On wood stocks, a tighter fit is more discreet but lacks strength at the top edges and is not actually a great deal more aesthetically pleasing than a 'bedding border'.
Below the seam, the stock is made of plastic but above the seam, the stock is entirely constructed of soft rubber. The rubber needs to be heavily keyed and for those who want the ultimate strength, small patches of carbon fiber or fiberglass mat should be inserted against the side wall when the bedding compound is applied. Barreled action preparation While the goal of bedding is to create a mirror image of the barreled action, it is imperative that certain areas of the rifle action are relieved no contact with the bedding.
If the action does become pinched, random harmonic vibrations will totally destroy accuracy.
The areas that need relieving are the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug. Also the rear most face of the tang and any parallel wall metal on the action. These areas should be relieved with insulation tape or masking tape. Insulation tape is preferable as it does not bind with the compound and makes breaking the action out of the stock easier. Sako rifles have an essentially square action.
If the walls of this action are relieved with insulation tape or masking tape, the action will be a sloppy fit later on. Instead, on the Sako type action, the side walls should be given a heavy coating of release agent. Above are the three basic types of rifle action. The red arrows show the parallel walls that must be treated with due consideration. The square shape on the left depicts the shape of the Sako action. The middle shape depicts both the Howa and Winchester M70 actions while on the right is the Remington M action.
This last action is the easiest to obtain accuracy with as it does not have any parallel side wall metal. Howa wood blue rifle being prepared for bedding. Electrical tape is used for relieving, plastercine is used to plug the mag well this rifle was full length bedded. The black release agent has been applied to the action and can be seen on the electrical tape. On the above Sako, I have used electrical tape to block the mag well rather than plastercine.
Ruger action prep. Note how trigger cannot be removed. Plastercine can be used to block the trigger unit along with release agent. Above: A Tikka T3 ready for full length bedding, the ali lug is wedged in place, metal to metal contact at the front face only. Use electrical tape to relieve the top bottom as seen here and rear face of the lug. Use two pot 5 minute epoxy to lock the lug in place- requires great care.
Make sure no 5 minute epoxy seeps onto the front face of the lug. The Tikka T3, Sako A7 and Savage Axis have a floating aluminum recoil lug which needs special attention during bedding.
The front face of the recoil facing the forend is the only surface that should contact the action, other faces must be relieved. To ensure that the fit is correct, the top of the lug should be masked off and the rear of the lug should be masked off, trimming the insulation tape to suit.
Following this, the lug needs to be glued to the action, being careful to make sure no glue dribbles onto the front face.
Use a two pot 5 minute epoxy to secure the lug to the action. Once the bedding job is complete, the fine glue bond will break during removal of the action from the stock, leaving the lug in the stock where it needs to be.
The above picture shows one way of deraling with the current Sako 85 Synthetic. This mish mash of a rifle has a lug recess in the action, designed to fit the current Sako lug plate system- but instead utilizes an L shaped lug as was found on Early Tikka rifles along with one run of Sako's produced during the 's. The trigger inlet of the action should also be taped off. The headless bolts should now be masked to a thickness that allows them to easily pass through the holes in the stock.
It is very important that you get this right. If the taped bolts are a neat fit, the bolts will bind in the holes in the stock as compound seeps into the holes. This will prevent you from being able to set the action down into the mortice! If there is too much of a gap, the compound will leach out through the holes. About a. Make sure that the taping is neat where the bolts fit into the rifle action, not bunched up as it meets the action. Japanese and European rifles normally utilize metric M6 bolts.
It is important that the user has some means to unscrew the bolts at the end of the job. Cutting slots in the top of the bolts so that a screw driver can be applied later is very useful.
Button head hex bolts can also be ground down to suit.
It is important to check that when the bolts are screwed into the action, the masking tape on the bolts is flush with the action leaving no room for the bedding compound to key into the bolt threads see pictures.
Bringing the barreled action and stock together. Once the action is taped up and ready to go, a final fitting is required to check stock fit. At this point, we need to fit plasticine dams in the stock to prevent the bedding compound from migrating away from where it is needed.
The front plasticine dam in the barrel channel can be used to set the height that the action will sit during bedding. Most rifle actions are height critical so it is important to get the height right, especially if a lot of stock material was removed during preparation. Fitting the dams. In the above job, I am mid way through forming the dams. Following this, the barreled action is checked for fit. On this rifle, I am performing a front and rear bedding job no bedding through the mag well.
You can see the gap in the mag well where I will allow the compound to seep down. It pays to clean up this seepage immediately after setting the action into the mortice.
I have also glued pillars in place. Note that I have also made masking tape skirts along the side of the action to aid clean up. I'll pull and throw these skirts away after the action is put into the mortice. Fit the dams and shape the barrel dam to a nice concentric mold.
Please note: The height of the barrel dam will determine how high high the action sits. The front dam is your height reference point By leaving a sliver of stock material unground at the tang, you will have a rear height reference point. If working with long heavy barreled rifles free floated , it can pay to make a small plasticine mold at the forend tip to help take the weight of the barrel to alleviate any potential stress.
However, be careful to ensure that the tip mold does not interfere with the height of the barrel channel dam. If the barrel is not currently free floated and utilizes pressure point pads, these pads can be left in place until the bedding is finished, free floating the barrel as a final job.
Above, my plasticine dam is in place and formed to the barrel. As a last measure, I have applied a second foam dam over the plasticine dam.
This allows me to pour compound to a high level without having to worry about the compound flowing forwards. I guide the headless screws into the stock, push the action down till it is just touching the foam dam, pull the foam dam make sure the masking tape has a 'fast' tear tab , then push the action down to its final resting point in a slow steady motion.
A Remington SPS. Again we can see a good burn prep on this plastic stock, dams and straws are in place, plus the temporary foam dam. If possible, use a second temporary foam dam or even a rolled tissue dam over the front plasticine dam. See pictures for guidance.
You will need to decide whether you wish to perform a front and rear bedding job or full length bedding job. In most instance, it is best to perform full length bedding if possible. But there are times when full length bedding is extremely difficult to achieve and immensely stressful. If bedding the Hogue stock, I recommend front and rear bedding.
Close up of plasticine application for front and rear bedding. Please not that this example stock has not been prepped and needs to be stabilized first see skeletal voids.
Full view of M stock example with tang dam. You will also need to create a high point at the rear of the plasticine dam to prevent seepage, as well as small sidewall dams. Once the action is set down into the mortice, it is imperative that all mag well seepage is cleaned up, by reaching up from underneath and cleaning with a solvent and tissue or cotton buds.
If performing a full length bedding job, the entire mag well will need to be dammed. An M stock prepped fro full length bedding. Less vibration of barreled action in stock when firing. Rifle holds sighting in adjustments,from one hunting season to another. Sighting in of rifle can change in un bedded state, due to the nature of the wood and fiberglass stocks.
Wood can warp, bend,and expand,caused by temperature changes and moisture differences. Fiberglass stocks can after cure and warp and bend, non less than walnut stocks. These changes can ruin good accuracy, if rifle was good before. For example a rifle shooting 1 to 1. Rifles that are performing better in un bedded state will increase accuracy ,as an example from 0. After Pillar Bedding. The Rifle Bedding Book is a Pdf E-Book, with clear, comprehensive and descriptive photographs and instructions and guidance, in how a average rifle shooters can professionally Pillar bed their rifles.
Resulting in improved accuracy and consistency. The only thing needed is a Bedding Kit,few common tools,battery drill machine,wood chisels and sandpaper etc. Easy to follow instructions step by step of a bedding method that has over 37 years in use.
The most accurate rifles for Precision Bench Rest Competition,are bedded by this pillar bedding method.
Do you agree? Rifle Shooter!